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  • Feasting in Gotham

    June 11th, 2008 by Felicia Shiu, ABC

    New York has every food and drink imaginable. It is the gastronomic capital of the world (ok - maybe Paris).

    But if you were to pick one word to describe New York - you would have to say “food”. There really are too many options to choose from as you can nosh on street meat to all-out gourmet fare in posh Michelin rated restaurants. New York has terrific choices. There is no real definite “best” list in my opinion. The restaurant scene is always evolving and there are so many new places to try.

    If you want to be like a New Yorker - skip Zagat’s reviews and check out www.citysearch.com and if you want to make online reservations - use www.opentable.com. Warning - make reservations for the hot spots. Go early or very late if you really need to try a particular trendy restaurant.

    If you are interested in some of my recommendations - check out my blog (foodies.x.iabc.com) on a New York gastropub called The Spotted Pig, the bagels at H & H Bagels, great food with moderate prices at Tribeca’s Upstairs or cupcakes made famous courtesy of Sex and the City at Magnolia Bakery. I would love to hear about your favourites so that I can add them to my “to try” list.

    One can easily just do the city’s best chef or most famous chef tour and still run out of time and perhaps even $. Each have their own food empire - aka they own a multitude of restaurants and of course, their own signature style. Here are a few to consider:

    Mario Batali - better known as the Food Network TV Star who wears clogs and called “Molto Mario”and known for Italian fare. If you want a fantastic dining experience - try out two star Michelin rated Del Posto located in Chelsea (feels like you have entered an opulent hotel lobby) but I really enjoyed their tasting menu with two pastas including a unique spaghetti with crabmeat, chive blossoms and spicy habanero peppers. If you are into wine, they have an impressive spectrum of regional Italian varietals. My New York colleagues also love Mario’s Lupa (on Thompson Street between Bleecker and Houston Streets) which has a trattoria menu aka more reasonably priced menu with authentic seasonal ingredients. It is on my “must try list”.

    I really liked David Bouley’s Upstairs which is on top of his Bouley Bakery & Market in Tribeca. It is a small dining room with an open kitchen but very moderate prices and great food (check on my blog entry on this restaurant).

    There is one of my favourite chefs - Jean-Georges (ok - he is actually Jean Georges Vongerichten). I discovered Vong (on East 54th Street at Third Avenue) years ago - it is a great spot for French Asian cooking. I also enjoyed Mercer Kitchen, his Soho eatery in the basement of the Mercer Hotel. It was a perfect spot for lunch after exploring the galleries and shops in Soho. It is a chic spot - very fashionable and has a contemporary menu. His newest venture(I have not yet tried it) is the Spice Market for updated Southeast Asian cusine in the trendy Meatpacking district (13th Street at Ninth Avenue) which my colleagues rave about.

    I have always wanted to make it to one of restaurateur (he is not a chef) Danny Meyer’s spots - like the Gramercy Tavern or Union Square Cafe for quintessential New York and modern American cooking. Maybe this visit.

    There is also Laurent Tourondel’s restaurant empire to try. You can check out BLT Fish, BLT Prime, and BLT Steak. By the way, the “B” refers to the word”bistro” but not in the French sense but more American steakhouse. I tried BLT Prime on one of my last visits to New York and had a delicious meal. It has sleek decor and of course noise but great meat particularly the Japanese Kobe or American Wagyu beef (I tried the Wagyu Skirt Steak). It has a real hip New York feel to the restaurant with the aging cuts of meat presented (in the meat locker) right by the hostess desk and a big blackboard as the menu. They have delicious popovers to accompany the meal and you can get the recipe to take home. Of course, if you want more classic steakhouse - you can also try Smith & Wollensky (a US chain) for USDA prime beef.

    Of course, if you really want to splurge on supreme culinary experiences - you can check out three Michelin starred Le Bernardin (Eric Ripert is a master with fish - I have been to his Grand Cayman restaurant), Chanterelle (French), Masa (Japanese omakase meal with a $400 price tag), and Nobu (upscale sushi - I have been to the Hong Kong restaurant and recommend you try the yellowtail with jalapeno). I have paid homage to what I call culinary mecca - Thomas Keller’s three Michelin starred Per Se in the Time Warner Centre at Columbus Circle with an incredible view of Central Park. But I had to wait two and half months for a reservation (note there are only 15 tables) and it was only for lunch with a hefty price tag (well worth it). Of course, it was a four hour multi-course culinary journey and just bliss. Keller is considered the best chef in the USA (known also for French Laundry in Napa and Bouchon). You can try his Bouchon Bakery at the Time Warner Centre.

    If you are into Food Network TV, you can also try Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant at The London or Tom Collichio’s Craft empire. Friends rave about Craft. There is Craft on 19th Street between Broadway and Park Avenue South. I am hoping to try his casual cousin Craftbar for American Mediterrean fare.

    So enough already with the chefs.

    For pan - Asian fare, you can try the Monkey Bar on 54th between Madison and Park which has hand painted simians on the walls. Of course, you can do Sex and the City tour spot at Tao with their 16 foot Buddha with Chinese, Japanese and Thai dishes (great for small plates and sharing).

    Looking for a neighourhood fixture in Chinatown - check out The Chinatown Ice Cream Factory for its Asian flavours like lychee, taro, black sesame, or candied ginger ice cream or classics like mint chocolate chip. It is located on Bayard Street between Mott and Elizabeth Streets. I have taken many people here after doing the Canal Street thing.

    For French - there is La Bonne Soupe which is a modestly priced spot just off Fifth Avenue on 55th Avenue between Fifth and Sixth. Yes, you can get good soup, savory crepes, croque monsieur, salads and of course, steak frites. It is so convenient to Fifth Avenue shopping and perfect if you need a breather. My brother really likes Bistro Cassis on 14th Street between Seventh and Eighth. Then there is also the authethic French bistro Balthazar on Spring Street in Soho (part of Keith McNally’s empire). You must try their frites served in a paper cone, seafood towers, and of course their bread which is baked on the premises in their bakery next door.

    If you want Greek - try Estiatorio Milos ( the original restaurant is in Montreal and a favourite of Madonna). While a noisy spot which makes you feel like you are in a Greek taverna and a little $, you can enjoy fresh from the sea fish displayed at the counter (you pick by weight) and decide if it should be grilled or baked in sea salt. I really enjoy Milos. By the way, it is close to the conference hotel.

    If you are in Times Square and looking for Italian, try Osteria Al Doge on W 44th. It is a terrific Venetian inspired restaurant set amongst all the touristy fast food chains. You can also hit Restaurant Row - better known as 46th Street between Eighth and Ninth.

    I like the Upper West Side for dining - it feels more local and neighbourhood like. It is a chock-block of restaurants. If you want to try Mediterranean - check out Isabella’s (great for brunch!) on Columbus at 77th street or to get a taste of Provence, visit Nice Matin at 79th and Amsterdam (also great for brunch). Another breakfast or brunch spot is Sarabeth’s Kitchen (locations on both the Upper East and Upper West sides). My brother also recommends Dovetail on W77 Street at Columbus - mere steps from Central Park (It was listed as a 2008 hot table in Conde Nast Traveller magazine) For deli - check out the New York institution for Jewish comfort food with old fashion decor on Amsterdam at 86th Street - Barney Greengrass.

    Of course, if you want to try the Lower East Side, try the tasting menu at wd-50 on Clinton with award winning chef Wylie Dufresne. He has an experimental style -basically he is a proponent of molecular gastronomy. One of my dishes (his signature) was an “egg” which was really a carrot-coconut sunnyside up egg and the carrot ran like an egg yolk when poked with a fork. Dessert was chocolate dirt complete with “grubs” which was sunflower seeds. He takes science to food prep and presentation. It is a lot of fun and eye brow raising. The waiter introduced me to a great Riesling which I had ended up running around Toronto to buy out the stock (got a case and a half).

    Looking for more kosher deli - try Katz’s on E. Houston at Ludlow Street. It is one of the original Eastern European restaurants in the Lower East Side (1888)- great pastrami and Matzo ball soup. It is like you stepped back in time even the waiters have worked there for fifty years. Just remember to keep your ticket.

    Of course, there is the conveniently located midtown Carneige Deli right by the Hilton, our conference hotel. But be prepared that you will be charged $ for sharing but the sandwiches are Jurassic in size but I love their half sour pickles (free) and pairing it with Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry soda (a deli thing). Of course, it is considered a tourist destination but it is right in the theater district with celebrity photographs lining the walls and you can have their New York cheesecakes.

    Rosa Mexicano on First at 58th is always packed. So make reservations if you want Mexican. You can have your guacamole made to order at your table.

    Doing the modern art thing at the recently renovated Museum of Modern Art, my colleagues recommend The Modern on 53rd between Fifth and Sixth for contemporary cuisine.

    Looking for a break from all the sightseeing or a casual brunch spot? Try Le Pain Quotidien - a Belgian chain with great homemade hazelnut spread, fresh bread and pastries. It is good for a meal or just a snack. Locations throughout the city.

    Looking for pizza? Try Patsy’s for tasty New York style pies and affordable dining. I also like sharing their insalata argula with their penne alla vodka or fettucine carbonara. They have locations around the city but I like visiting the Upper East Side location (200 East 60th Street at Third Avenue) so that I can visit Dylan’s Candy Bar for candy and chocolate. Dylan is the daughter of Ralph Lauren.

    If you want ice cream sundaes and dessert (they also have burgers and crepes)- try Serependity Cafe. I like their frrrozen hot chocolate which is also sold now in Williams-Sonoma. Yes, this is the same cafe as the movie with the same name starring John Cusack and Kate Beckinsdale.

    If you are looking for pizza near the conference hotel, try John’s Pizzeria at 260W 44st or his Greenwich location at 278 Bleecker. This is more of New York style pizza. But I prefer Patsy’s.

    Found yourself in Soho? While it isn’t fancy fare - it is moderate priced contemporary American food at Zoe at 90 Prince Street. I have found it very consistent over the years.

    Ok - so what about those hot dogs? Try Gray’s Papaya or Papaya King with locations all over Manhattan.

    Street food? Street vendors abound and it is fast and economical. It is easy to get breakfast on the go with a coffee and a roll.

    Yes - the coffee is poured in an iconic blue and white paper cup with the Acropolis just like the movies and tv shows which are set in New York City.

    You can even get roasted nuts and the aroma of sweet honey roasted nuts and chestnuts (winter time)beckons you to buy. You can even get noodles, soft warm pretzels with rock salt and even falafel. By the way, if you want fruit - you will find numerous mini-markets on the street corners.

    New Yorkers pride themselves on knowing where to find the best of everything and they love talking about restaurants. Everyone has an opinion about food. So don’t forget to ask a native New Yorker!

    Don’t forget to try a cosmopolitan, manhattan or a big apple martini! And the bellini (you can try the original at Harry Cipriani’s on Fifth Avenue which is replica of their Venice restaurant with their fantastic calamari risotto but the prices are very $$$$).

    That was my tome on food in New York.

    I hope you discover some wonderful eateries and give me your recommendations!

    3 Responses to “Feasting in Gotham”

    1. Paula Cassin Says:

      Oh my goodness!!! It’s overwhelming, really, the amount of choice. I can’t wait to get there and I’m glad I’m taking a few extra days in NYC…

    2. Christina Garrigan Says:

      Hi. Mmmmm. La Bonne Soup was good. I am recalling that meal, as I wait for room service, since the 7:30 Dine-around group left. At 7:15 or so, I guess.

      For a conference with plenty of social networking sessions, this is a pretty quiet forum. Should that tell me something about the medium?

    3. Emily Morton Says:

      Wow, that’s quite a list. I wish I had seen this before coming to NYC! However, I went to a few places that were interesting. My friends and I ate at Ninja New York. The atmosphere was great and the food decent, but the prize of the trip goes to Empanada Mama’s in Hell’s Kitchen. I don’t remember exactly where it was located, but it was absolutely fantastic. I’d say 20-30 max can eat in this restaurant at once. Their plantain chips and guacamole were amazing, and their varied empanadas were excellent. If you’ve never been, I suggest giving it a try.

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